Book Review: Heirloom Recipes of the Cordillera

By Rita Papey
Regional Nutrition Program Coordinator
National Nutrition Council
Cordillera Administrative Region

Thank you  and congratulations to the group that conceptualized, planned, and prepared the book. This is a milestone in the preservation of knowledge of the Cordillera Culture particularly diet and nutrition.

This book contains the indigenous, age old recipes of the Cordillera passed from generation to generation and thus the title is very appropriate.  Heirloom means part of an inheritance passed from generation to generation. It contains recipes using  rice,  root crops, vegetables  meat,  and fish snails and crabs as main ingredients, preparation of preserves and drinks and beverages of Cordillera ancestors passed on to the present.

It has highlighted the importance of Rice among the Cordillerans.  Indeed rice is more than just a food commodity.  Family and community life revolves around the rice cycle with the “seasons, months named based on the rice cycle like  ahi gaud (pre-planting season), ahi tunod (planting season), ahi-kagoko (weeding of rice plant), ahi-ani (harvest time). The terms are of the Tuwali, particularly Kiangan, but I am sure  there are equivalents in all Cordilleran ethnic groups. Although the book has failed to mention this fact or further elucidate the major role of rice in the life and culture of the Cordillerans, it has included the most number of (more than 20) heirloom recipes making use of rice as main ingredient.

The write ups showed that food is not only for the nourishment of the physical body but that food in particular heirloom recipes  are  a means of nourishing family and community life characterized by the sharing, community support and involvement of various members of the community or family in the food preparation and  consumption. I think it is just right that  it does not contain nutrition facts and caloric values  because it goes beyond physical nutrition of individuals/families and communities. I believe that the heirloom recipes cannot be totally complete if they are only prepared to serve the physical nourishment of individuals and perhaps this is one of the most difficult aspect the tradition that can be sustained especially in the present settings.

The book is a valuable piece of work. While it aims to document the  heirloom recipes it also gives a glimpse of community life of Cordillerans in the older generations and perhaps still in many far flung communities that are not much influenced yet by social media and other technological advancements. Many present day Cordillerans especially those in urban areas may not have any knowledge at all of these heirloom recipes. There may still be other important recipes not included in the book but is I think it is by far the first of its kind — a recipe book showing the recipes alive in the cultural setting. It shows appreciation of the creativity of our ancestors and gives information to the modern day Cordillerans of the kind of diet and community life our ancestors had.

With the technological developments, globalization and information technology, these heirloom recipes in the state they are described will soon be lost as there will be less  and less informants who will share first hand experience and knowledge of these recipes as described in the book.  With the advent of globalization and social media, they soon shall just be realities we get to know through documentations like this.  This is one landmark piece of work helpful in preserving knowledge about these heirloom recipes that will serve the present and future generations.

This piece of work can also serve as a good reference in our current efforts of promoting healthier food options in the region. The changing dietary patterns of the Cordillerans brought about by the increasing availability and accessibility  of processed calorie dense foods  through the food grocery food chains plus the technological advancements  resulting to sedentary lifestyles contributed to the increasing problem of  overweight and obesity among all age groups.  A number of the recipes included in this book can be promoted as part of our campaign for the adoption of healthier diets to promote good health and nutrition including combating overnutrition.

Again, congratulations to the Task Force for Indigenous People’s Rights and Partners for Indigenous Knowledge Philippines for coming up with this landmark output.